Runway one certainly got off to superbly stylish start thanks to a classic collection from Martin Grant.

Never controversial, but always charming, were the ex-Melbournian's well-tailored pieces with their typical Parisian influence. Luckily, tailored ladylike dressing is back in this season, finally replacing the 'throw anything (or everything) on and go looks' we have seen for the past few winters, so Grant is right on the money.

Beginning with a duck egg blue strapless dress made from cleverly draped jersey, the collection went from strength to strength. The dress itself had a bubble, or balloon-shaped skirt, which has been predicted as a fashionable shape for the upcoming season, and it does work highly effectively on the right body.

Grant seemed to be going for a demure 40's look with a femme fatale edge in winter dresses, but his tailored coats featured a hint of quirk as collars were oversized and sleeves puffed out from the elbow down.

Wearing blue with black has been struck off the fashion 'don't' list again this winter due the resurgence of 40's trends.

Nicola Finetti certainly took advantage of this with three-dimensional blue floral detailing and embroidery scrolling down from the necklines of his little black dresses.
Black featured heavily in this collection but snow white cropped up in a few dresses to create a welcome break amid the darkness.

The finale was a crowd favourite: a white mini dress was made slightly more adventurous with extra straps and black details at the neck. This dress also featured a balloon skirt and the newly popular high waistline.

One of the few to side with a bohemian image for the upcoming season is Easton Pearson (pictured), though the deconstructed nature they employ is simply their signature.

And they do it well, mixing all kinds of patterns and textures to create a collection that is more gypsy princess than bag lady chic. Rich colours with just a hint of gold made up a mildly ethnic collection that isn't out of line with their previous works.

Though they have created some great, new shapes for winter particularly the floor-length, high-collared coat with sleeves that fluted at the elbow. The stripes zigzagging across it were somewhat hypnotic, but who would want to avert their gaze anyway-

The first of Jayson Brundson's designs to strut around the circular catwalk made the model look deliciously devilish. Pretty, yet bold, the midnight blue dress was created in satin with a wide lapel that grazed the corners of the collarbones.

Once again, the collection was a little bit 40s, but very sexy secretary. Jet black, bright blue and soft greys were the order of the day, but a few deep crimson dresses managed to sneak in, along with a dubious shiny black pencil skirt that was a little too plastic.

The Victorian high-necked dress that ended his collection was paired with a patent black belt around the waist unfortunate, as it would have been close to perfection without it.

If a pirate and a beatnik had a love child, one would imagine they would dress in something like a few of the outfits on display from the Mad Cortes collection. Baggy black and white stripes, puff-sleeved brown blouses and thick belts contributed to the unusual marriage.

In contrast, a dark blue dress tied at the waist with matching bow, and a black suit with sleeves pushed up gathered in all the right places, made for a more refined yet coolly casual silhouette.

The Mad Cortes collection, and the entire show, was brought to a fitting end with a wintry floral (if there is such a thing) slip dress that featured a splash of buttercup and a hint of scarlet proof that winter dressing doesn't have to be all gloomy hues and block colour.

Overall, the first runway of the week was a successful commencement to the festival, due to commercial but stylish designs with just enough of an edge to keep the fickle fashion set interested all winter long.