The specially-built fashion cube in the Melbourne Museum complex was overloaded with media and many fashion-savvy consumers for the first runway show of the current season. What the curious crowd was privy to was an all-Beatles soundtrack accompanying a (somewhat creepy via the use of facemasks with eyeholes poked out) tribute to the 60's icon Twiggy a swipe at the recent skinny model controversy perhaps- As predicted, the winter fashions seem to be taking a leaf from a retro, mod aesthetic.

Camilla and Marc led the way to the familiar strains of she loves you, yeah, yeah, yeah sending varying lengths of military-style coats down the runway, complete with brass button details, the design duo used the popular black, grey and navy palette, broken up with versions in bold red and striking bottle green. Shift dresses were also a retro choice, dragged from the mundane in his instance by the use of pleated ruffles that drew the eye down the length of the piece.

Tina Kalivas racy and spacey designs were also eye-catching not least for the red plastic hoods the models sported down the catwalk. The designer's typically strong colour palette has this season shifted to the effective pairing of bright red and black. Her spaced-out, almost Trekian-themed pieces turned literal, yet more elegant, half way through the collection with the addition of dresses in an original Kalivas-designed galaxy print. On display were a kimono-style dress and also a blousy version in this to-die-for fabric.

Toni Maticevski displayed a translucent white, billowing smock, which fell from the neck. The next simpler, more tailored, white dress featured delicate ties at the shoulders and may be easier to pull off in the real world. Not that the real world has much to do with Maticevski's designs, with his trademark gowns worthy of a more glamorous lifestyle. Hopefully some starlet will give his final creation of the show a red carpet airing a printed, floor-length gown in a myriad of soft greys with Victorian-style ruffles on the bodice providing much needed feather-like movement.

A variety of thigh-high dresses were coupled with this season's obligatory opaque tights during Alice McCall's showing. A belted, tunic knit in navy was a classic choice, as was a delicate, pale grey version. McCall injected some sunshine into the collection by presenting an adorable canary yellow blouse, with white lace finishing off the collar and sleeves for a vintage look.

Black and white stripes were a feature of Marnie Skillings latest offerings. The favoured pattern of beatniks showed up on tops, cardigans and knit dresses. High-necked skivvies were also in, worn under dresses as is the current style. Predominantly black and white overtones were highlighted with candy apple green on mini slip dresses and Skillings subverted a major winter trend by substituting black opaque stockings for white.

Kirrily Johnston finished the evening with stylish, practical pieces, though models were rugged up in turtleneck sweaters pulled up to their eyeballs probably not the best choice if you wanted to pop into the bank. Calf-length yellow dresses were a comfortable departure from the abundance of mini lengths shown. However, Johnston included her fair share of those too, in shiny black and caramel satin incarnations. A highlight was a floaty, blush-hued smock, worn off the shoulder with just one puff sleeve. The dress is very on-trend, but with an original twist.

All up, Runway One displayed a re-imagining of what the look would be like on the streets of 60s London. The summer gravitation towards dresses will continue into the cooler months, adding trench or military coats and long-sleeved layers for warmth. Tonal blacks, whites and greys dominated with dashes of sunshine yellow and vintage green to balance out the bleakness. And everywhere you look it's stockings, stockings, stockings! Here's to a directional and swinging season ahead.