Although confronting for the unseasoned traveller, the chaotic mixture of communism, religion and capitalism makes Vietnam deliciously addictive in no time at all.
No place encapsulates the various aspects of the world’s biggest rice exporter quite like Ho Chi Minh City – both weird and wonderful in equal measure.
Still known as Saigon to most of the 6.5 million locals, HCMC is one of South East Asia’s most chaotic cities, as a taxi ride from the airport will quickly demonstrate.
Prepare yourself for endless touts and street vendors when you first take to the streets – a definite crash course in Vietnamese business etiquette for a rucksack-carrying new arrival.
Be it a lavish hotel in the CBD, or a guest house in the backpacker-friendly Pham Ngu Lao area, the accommodation is extremely affordable, allowing you to take a moment from the bustling avenues and realise how far your Australian dollars can take you!
The following sites and excitements are catered for the curious and the adventurous – something you are guaranteed to become after a single day in Saigon:
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Reunification Palace Once the Presidential Palace of the South Vietnamese government, a statue of Ho Chi Minh now stands tall above this luxurious stately building. The famous image of a communist solider flying the VC flag from the 4th Floor balcony comes to mind when walking through the main entrance hall. With more gold stars than you can count, the idea of Vietnamese communism causes some confusion when exiting the building to the hoards of fanatical souvenir entrepreneurs. Find the palace at 106 Ð Nguyen Du. Entry costs US$1.00/15,000đ. |
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War Remnants Museum Dozens of well-preserved aircraft, tanks, helicopters and weaponry are on display at this confronting exhibition. Compared to a lot of government buildings, this anti-war museum is neutral in its approach; showing – often in graphic detail – atrocities committed not only by the US troops, but those of the communists, including an unnerving recreation of the ‘tiger cages’ in which South Vietnamese were kept for ‘re-education’ after the US departure. The museum is at 28 Ð Vo Van Tan. Entry costs US$1.00/15,000đ. |
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Jade Emperor Pagoda Dedicated to the supreme Taoist deity, the Emperor of Jade, this spectacular Chinese-style pagoda enchants you with a waft of incense as you pass beneath its ornate gates. You will find many pagodas in Vietnam, all with classical Chinese motifs and characters, but none quite as impressive as this one. The variety of punishments depicted in the ‘Ten Regions of Hell’ is particularly interesting. Surprisingly, choking on pollution and risking death by motorbike is not a punishment, but a part of every-day life in Saigon. Pass through the incense at 73 Ð Mai Thi Luu. Entry is free. |
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Cu Chi Tunnels Built during the Vietnam War, this network of tunnels, stretching 200km around the outskirts of HCMC, were used by the VC for communication between Communist controlled areas and guerrilla attacks against US troops. For US$7.00 entry, the museum has a fascinating array of booby-traps, dioramas and even a firing range. For the no-so-claustrophobic, you can crawl through a section of the tunnels, giving a sense of the determination and resolve of the VC troops. Bus day-trips can be booked through most hotels from US$4.00/60,000đ. |
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Ben Thanh Market If you can hold your own amongst the endless merchants tugging at your shoulder in this crowded cacophony of goods, you can survive anywhere in Vietnam. Haggling is recommended and becomes addictive, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself arguing over the equivalent of thirty cents by the end. You can literally come to Vietnam with nothing and on your first day and sort out all your clothes, toiletries, shoes, food and luggage for US$50…and that’s my final offer. Brave the market at the corner of ÐL Le Loi, ÐL Ham Nghi, ÐL Tran Hung Dao and Ð Le Lai. |
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Saturday Night Fever In stark contrast to sleazy sports cars cruising Sydney’s streets on the weekend, the Saturday night motorbike parade in Saigon’s CBD is a fascinating social event. Traffic slows to a crawl as the masses of Honda-riding young people take to the streets of the Dong Khoi area – many pubs serve as vantage points for the spectator! The impenetrable mass of young bike riders, often three to a bike, are dressed to kill and ready to make eye contact with that special someone three lanes away. Aim for the Cyclo Bar, ground floor at the Majestic Hotel, 1 Ð Dong Khoi for a good view of the action. |
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September Park Located right next to the backpacker district, this is the closest thing to a public park you will find in HCMC. This small patch of green is a welcome site amongst the repressive smog and countless Vesper horns. If the streets on a Saturday night are the party, then September Park is the empty bedroom…a very crowded empty bedroom. Lovers recline together on their motorcycles, lined up neatly around the edges of the park whispering sweet nothings and enjoying the closest thing to privacy around. The ‘park’ can be found between Ð Pham Ngu Lao and Ð Le Lai. |
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Cao Dai Holy See Northwest of HCMC, you will find the ornate and unique Than That Cao Dai, the great temple of the Cao Dai religion. Founded in 1926, Cao Dai is a combination of Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Christianity and Islam. Tourists are welcome to this massive complex to witness the noon service, each religion dresses in different coloured robes and prays together in the richly decorated temple. Five religions sharing the same divine origin through common prayer is an inspirational and humbling site. Bus day-trips can be booked through most hotels from US$6.00/90,000đ. |
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History Museum To properly appreciate the tumultuous history of the Vietnamese people, be sure to explore this decorative museum built by the French in 1929 next to the beautiful botanic gardens. Relics dating back 2500 years illustrate the varied cultural influences upon Vietnam and the centuries of looming invasion by her neighbours. The list is a long one - including the Cham, Khmer, Indonesian and Chinese empires, right up to the French, American and finally Ho Chi Minh’s conquest of the south. Drop by the museum at Ð Nguyen Banh Khiem. Entry costs US$1.00/15,000đ. |
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Street Food Market Of an evening, outside the Ben Thanh market, a culinary adventure not for the faint hearted awaits you. Mobile restaurants appear on the street in the blink of an eye where, not long before, the traffic reigned. Very popular amongst locals, these stalls have a myriad of foods, from the traditional to the outright strange. This is a one-stop-shop for the curious tastebud, if it hops, flies, walks, crawls, slithers or swims you can have it barbequed, stir-fried or boiled right in front of you. Try duck embryo on the small laneway off ÐL Ham Nghi right by the market. |
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